Impressions of China

After a month in China, we've come away with many thoughts, learnings and impressions about this remarkable country. When we've asked others around the world about their thoughts on the future, the most common response we heard was the rise of China. With the growing influence of this nation of 1.3 billion people, it has been fascinating to come here for ourselves and speak to and observe the Chinese to form some of our own opinions.

We had the opportunity to converse with a number of the locals - especially young people who speak English - and have had many friendly encounters with people of all ages simply by smiling and saying Ni Hao ("hello"). We've asked many questions - some simple...and others more difficult, which we often saved for our tour guides who are used to being asked direct questions about Mao, The Cultural Revolution, The One Child Policy and so on. As you might expect, what you read and hear about China in the States is very much from the Western perspective sprinkled with our propaganda. And what you see and hear in China is very much from the Chinese perspective with their propaganda. Perhaps "truth" (if there is such a thing) lies somewhere in the balancing of the two perspectives.

In general, our impressions of this rapidly changing country have been very positive and optimistic. But we also encountered situations and people that left a bad taste in our mouth. Knowing that we have only skimmed the very surface of this complex and growing nation, we would like to share with you some of what we liked and disliked about our experience...

What we loved...

• The friendliness of Chinese people to foreigners - In general, we have been overwhelmed by how welcoming the people are. While some novelty of Western tourists is wearing off in big cities, it is still very much present in most the country. People are excited to come speak to you - even if they only know a few words of English. They smile at you, wave at you and often watch you with curiosity. And they love to take photos with fair haired individuals. While at Mt. Emei Shan, in a 10-minute period while waiting for Eric, I was asked to pose in 6 photos and was photographed by others from a distance. I felt like a movie star!
  


• The opening up of China - This was most apparent when speaking to the Chinese youth in their 20-somethings who have experienced the drastic changes in the last 10 years. In comparison to the past, people can speak much more freely about their opinions and beliefs. And while censorship is still present, it is becoming less strict all the time. People can now choose what they want to study and choose their own professions (The down side is that the government is no longer responsible for finding jobes for everyone and gives no garuntee that after university there will be enough jobs). The youth are hungry for the opportunity to prosper based on their own talents and ambitions and all say that they want a better life.
  


• Focus on family - The Chinese have a great appreciation for family values and expect to put family first. Families tend to be very close and support and help each other on a regular basis. This might mean having several generations living under one roof, children financially supporting their parents or grandparents, helping immediate or extended family on the farm or with the local businesses, and so on. Some children leave home to go to university in another city, but most stay local and those who do go away often return to their home to be near their families.
  
  One changing, and potentially negative, element in Chinese families are the growing number of very spoiled and self-centered only-children due to the One Child Policy. When the policy was first instituted, cousins served as siblings so kids learned the basics of sharing and caring. But now, with no cousins or siblings, parents are often putting too much attention and money into their one child. To help with this growing phenomena, the government is beginning to allow couples who both come from only-child families to have 2 kids.
  


• Sense of social community - As we mentioned in our other blog entry on China, the older Chinese LOVE to gather in the evenings and mornings in public squares, parks, tea houses and outside their homes on the sidewalks to play games, dance, sing and exercise. There is a very close-knit neighborhood feel even in the midst of big cities. People don't come home after work and go into their homes and hole up. They get outside to talk to their friends and neighbors and they love to socialize and be an active part of their communities.
  


• Pride and excitement for the 2008 Olympics - Beijing 2008 is everywhere! The country is gearing up for this big event in every way possible and using it as a good excuse to improve its local and national infrastructure in terms of transport, tourist sites, local amenities and more. There are so many building and restoration projects all over the country you can't even believe. It's the talk of the nation on TV and radio stations, on billboards and in newspapers. There is even a campaign in the capital city to help teach better "manners" to its residents to impress the world (e.g., no spitting/hawking on the streets and floors, stand in line and wait your turn). It's a very exciting time for China and a perfect time for this event to take place here to showcase how China is changing and emerging as a major nation on the world stage.
  


• Deep rooted traditions and history - Having been around for so many thousands of years, the historical and cultural past of China is awe inspiring. We had the opportunity to learn about some of their favorite holidays including Spring Festival, Chinese New Year, and China's National Day. We also got a chance to practice the art of calligraphy, observe the religious traditions of prayer and offerings and learn about some of their prized artistic traditions such as Chinese paining, folk music, Kung Fu and Tai Chi.
  

What we didn't love...

• Lack of basic social "manners" - Probably the most frustrating part of the Chinese culture is the absence of consideration for strangers and an "out for yourself" mentality when in large groups. While Confucius' behavioral laws may apply to family, friends, colleagues and neighbors, they do not apply to strangers on the street. This means that a great majority of Chinese do not know how to wait in line (you are likely to get crushed in the crowd when boarding a bus or subway), have no problem hawking and spitting in public on streets and even floors, allow small children to alleviate themselves (number 1 and number 2) on streets and sidewalks (and as we discovered sometimes on buses), often get up before performances are over and do not clap, and in general can be very pushy and impatient.
  
  This lack of consideration also applies to driving...pedestrians beware - cars, motos and bikes will not yield. And the unstated rule of the road is the bigger vehicle has the right of way - so if you're smaller, get out of the way. Some of these cultural differences may be slightly worrisome if the Chinese continue to become more influential. Hopefully, as the country continues to develop, some of the basic social norms of respect and courtesy will filter into the mainstream.
  


• Squat toilets - You're used to what you're raised with...and we were not raised with these. We have managed just fine, but have had to practice our squatting and aiming abilities. What we dislike the most is that a number of these toilets don't flush, so they get quite smelly and gross quite quickly. There are many that are clean and pristine, but it all depends on where you are. Train toilets and train station toilets tend to be the worst, so you just have to plug your nose and get it over with as quickly as possible!
  


• Gap between rich and poor - China is becoming increasingly wealthy, but not everywhere. The cities are beginning to look a lot more Western and many people are migrating there for better opportunities and jobs. And there is a huge focus on "getting rich" in the younger generation. But the countryside and other parts of China are still quite poor and undeveloped. Most farmers still use only manual techniques and many people in rural areas live in one or two room concrete block houses - though, interestingly, most people have a TV.
  
  The poor are not necessarily unhappy...in fact, many seem quite content with their lives, not having known anything different. Life is simple and as long as basic needs are met, perhaps this isn't all bad. What is disheartening is when basic needs cannot be met, or when the poor are taken advantage of and treated badly by those who are rising on the social ladder. We were told some very sad stories of how the rich treat the poor, especially in big cities - often ignoring their existence completely, mocking them, or even throwing things at them. This probably happens everywhere in the world, but the economic and social divide in China is very pronounced and basic human respect we were told is not always present. It will be interesting to see in the coming years how this divide is either bridged or widened. And how the focus on wealth and riches will play out in a country that is becoming more consumerist all the time.
  


• Outward appearances and saving face - A major part of Chinese culture is the need to impress with outward appearance and save face in any situation that could hurt one's pride or ego. What this means is that while external appearance are impressive or grand, below the surface things may be falling apart. The Chinese are constantly undertaking grandiose building projects (e.g., Three Gorges Dam, huge bridges, buildings, etc.). The projects tend to be completed at breakneck speed and are quite awesome to the eye. However, there certainly have been reports about questionable quality and durability of some of these projects. And because of the need to save face, when something does go wrong, there is a tendency to point fingers or hide facts so as not to damage one's reputation. This can play out very negatively in government and business affairs (and the government still controls many aspects of the country).
  
  Or, as we found, it can also play out negatively on train dining cars. On two separate trains, fights broke out in the dining car involving train staff and passengers that usually hinged on saving face. In the first scenario, the train chef came to the rescue of a waitress who was being yelled at by a passenger after she had spilled hot tea on the passenger's lap. By the end of the dispute, the chef had to be held back and his knife taken away as he was defending the pride of the waitress and both sides were getting very violent. Quite an interesting display to show how this cultural phenomena plays out in everyday life.
  


• Environmental concerns - China is going through its industrial revolution - but 100 years after everyone else. The consumerism of the West and desire for lower prices is fueling China's growth. But to produce products at such cheap prices, you have to have cheap labor and loose environmental standards so manufacturers can do what it takes to get the job done. While environmental concerns are starting to become a topic of discussion for the Chinese due to pressure from around the world, it is still not a top priority. Their main focus is on economic growth and development and it's highly unlikely they will sacrifice that for the environment at this stage. This could be a major problem in the years to come.
  


• One Party - While China still claims to be socialist (though they are looking more consumerist and free market all the time), what really makes them a communist nation is the fact that there is still only one party - the Communist Party. Many Chinese feel positive about their government (and even Mao) and credit it with the unification, and now development, of their nation. However, the downside of one party means that there is no opposition, no questioning and no balance of power. Party favors, corruption and shady dealings are still quite common, but of course have no way of being publicized to the general public. You only know of them if you or someone you know is involved. And while the "watch your neighbor" practices are much less than before, it does still happen (i.e., with the One Child Policy, your neighbors and community are supposed to hold you accountable for having only one child...if you break the rules and they don't report you, they will also get a small fine for your lack of obedience).

This entry has actually been very hard to write because we know that our initial impressions and learnings are only a small snapshot into the many complexities of China - its development, people, culture and role in the world. There are no black and white conclusions - but rather a lot of gray and unanswered questions that will play out over time. If nothing else, what we've seen, heard and experienced here has challenged our thinking and encouraged us to reflect thoughtfully on a whole host of social, political and cultural issues. For that, we are very thankful.

If you are interested in reading about China, some books that we've either read or that have been recommended to us include:

• Wild Swans: Three Daughters of China, by Jung Chang


• The Long March, by Sun Shuyun


• Mao's Last Dancer, by Li Cunxin


• Journey to the West, by Wu Chengen (a Chinese classic)


• The Good Earth, by Pearl S. Buck


• Daughter of China, by Meihong Xu


• Mao: The Unknown Story, by Jung Chang