Patagonia Part 6: El Bolson

After our adventures in Southern Chile, we were ready to get back to Argentina where transport is a bit easier and prices are a bit cheaper. From the border we took a bus to El Bolson, an artsy community bordering yet another beautiful Patagonian National Park.

Our first day in El Bolson was all about recovery...after so many buses, trucks, etc. along the Austral Road, we were a bit travel weary and in need of a day of R&R. We found ourselves a cute little studio apartment and treated ourselves to a nice dinner, wine and dessert (ice cream and homemade chocolate). After we were refreshed, we began preparations for another 3-day hike around Cerro (Mt.) Heilo Azul we had scoped out in our Patagonian Trekking Guide.

Day one of the trek took us alongside a crystal clear river and over a VERY rickety bridge hanging almost sideways with numerous slats missing (we later found out the park service considers this bridge "closed," but we hadn´t checked with them and there was no sign). However, we made it safely across the river to begin the 1,000 meter ascent to the refugio Hielo Azul (Blue Ice), set in a lovely valley with a stream, bordered by pine forest and enclosed by high mountain walls. It´s autumn in South America so the fall colors are spectacular and make the hikes even more enjoyable...it also helps me feel the huffing and puffing uphill is worthwhile. :)

The refugio was a cool log cabin completely furnished with natural wood carved chairs, tables, and benches. It had the standard old-fashioned wood stove for cooking and also a small stove for heating the living area. Upstairs there was a loft with pads for sleeping, which was a nice change from our tent. And in addition to the hut to himself...and his girlfriend) who lived in a skeeper (who mostly keptmall enclosed area at the back, there was an adorable resident cat who fell in love with Eric. Another couple from Spain was also staying at the hut and the cabin felt cozy and warm with the fire, a hot meal, and good company.

The next day, we experienced the downside of the change in season...we had an entire day of pouring rain. Initially, we hoped the rain would subside so we could leave for the next refugio by early afternoon. No luck. Then we debated putting on our rain gear and roughing it, but after another couple from Argentina arrived completely soaked and miserably cold, we decided to wait it out at least until the next morning. So we spent the day reading, journaling, chatting, and relaxing...and did our best to combat the boredom of being stuck indoors. Later that evening, the rain stopped and the clouds cleared to reveal a perfect starry sky.

On day three of our hike, we got back to hiking and began the day with a 3-hour sidetrip up to the Hielo Azul Glacier. It was a perfectly clear and sunny day and we had incredible views down into the valley and also of the glacier. The trek included a bit of rock climbing (which I typically am not too fond of), but Eric provided good encouragement as we climbed, singing "spider girl, spider girl..." (Simpsons anyone?)

When we got back down the mountain, we began the walk to the next refugio Cajon De Azul, about 4 hours away. As we came to the next river crossing and found that the log "bridge" was a sheet of ice, we decided to choose another log upriver and had to eventually straddle and slide over it - just a little cold on the inner thighs! Not to worry though, we had a cheering squad on the other side...a couple from Switzerland (Chris and Sabine) had arrived on the opposite side of the bank...and after seeing us cross, decided not to attempt the log crawl and instead joined us. We climbed up a steep hill and arrived at Lago Natacion where we had lunch and they picked up their bags...then we continued on together around the lake and down the mountainside into the next valley where the refugio sits.

The refugio Cajon De Azul was really more of an estancia (ranch)...it had fenced in fields for the horses and livestock, a small orchard and gardens, and even a group of local gauchos (cowboys) enjoying a beer in the dining area when we arrived. Like the previous cabin, it also had plenty of carved wooden furniture, a wood stove, and a sleeping loft. We were joined by the Spanish couple again and another 2 girls from Argentina and Turkey who had come from the other direction. We all sat around drinking tea and mate (the typical Argentian herbal drink) and watched as the local owners brought in a huge slab of beef and prepared a traditional meal of Milanesa and potatoes for dinner. This place felt culturally authentic and incredibly comfortable - we could have easily stayed here several more days.

On day four, we sadly left the estancia after breakfast, waving goodbye to t gates and headed down the valley to the end of the trek. As we followed the general course of the rihe gauchos saddling their horses as we walked out thever out of the valley, we were afforded some more excellent views of the area...and some more great exercise as we climbed up and down the path. Chris and Sabine joined us today too and we enjoyed a nice lunch by the river before finishing the hike and catching the local bus back into town.

We checked back into our little studio apartment and decided to head to the grocery store to see what we could make ourselves for dinner. You should never go to the grocery store when you are hungry...we ended up cooking a feast of Milanesa, potatoes, veges, and cake for way more than 2 people. We certainly went to bed fat and happy, and ready to continue on our journey the next day to Bariloche...